[Editor’s note: This is a reprint of an e-mail from former CHCI graduate student, Maureen McCarthy, originally sent to CHCI faculty, staff, and students on September 11, 2007. Maureen earned her Master of Science degree in Experimental Psychology while working for the chimpanzees at CHCI. In what we hope will be a continuing series of these updates, Maureen describes her current endeavors as a research assistant in Uganda, collecting data on free-living chimpanzees.]
I hope you are all doing well. I am finally moved into the village where we will be living for the next couple months. We were delayed in leaving Kampala because my luggage got lost en route. We think it took a side trip to Nairobi before we met up with it again last Thursday. We left Kampala on Friday and took a bus to Masindi, the nearest city to the research site and my current location. The bus ride lasted from about 8 am to 2 pm and was bumpy but fascinating. Sometimes when the bus stopped people would run up to the windows to sell food and drinks to passengers. At one point, we saw vervet monkeys foraging in trees along the roadside.
Finally we reached Masindi, where a cab driver named Sam was scheduled to pick us up. When we pulled into the second of three stops in Masindi, a man identified himself as Sam so we got off the bus. He asked if we were going to Murchison Falls (a nearby national park and tourist destination), and we said no, we were going to Sonso (the chimp research site in the center of the Budongo Forest). That was the first sign that something was a little off. We started asking him what our names were and where Zinta (our research boss) was, and he said he didn’t know our names and Zinta was in Kampala (not true). A moment later, another man came up to us and showed me a text message on his phone. It was the text Zinta sent him to tell him when/where to pick us up and what our names are. He was the real Sam. What we think happened is that this other cab driver saw Sam in town and figured that he was picking up some muzungus (white people), so he thought he’d go to the bus stop before Sam’s and intercept his business.
We took a cab ride for about another hour on bumpy and partially flooded dirt roads to get to Sonso. Along the way we saw some baboons crop-raiding n a field. Sonso’s camp was really nice. Electricity, hot showers in the evening, water filters for clean drinking water … ah, the luxury! We spent couple days there learning about the data collection procedures with Zinta and meeting the other Budongo researchers. The first evening we were there, there was a going-away party for one of the people there, so we met the whole crew there, ate good food, and watched the Ugandan staff have a dancing competition. It was pretty idyllic. A few chimps even wandered through the edge of camp. I never expected to see my first free-living chimp as I was just standing in the middle of camp. They are so well-habituated there that they don’t seem to pay much attention to human presence. As far as primates go, we also saw blue monkeys, baboons, and black-and-white colobus monkeys there. I can’t even list all the other cool species we’ve seen so far.
The next morning, I awoke the the sound of chimpanzee pant hoots. We got up and went into the forest with Zinta and a field assistant and followed the chimps. It was extremely easy since a huge group was sitting in a tree along the road into camp for the first few hours of the morning. We watched, learned about the data collection procedures and took photos all morning. The following day we went to Masindi to get supplies and finally to our house. The house is meager but we are adjusting. No electricity–instead we have LED lights and candles. There are two bedrooms, a little kitchen area where we can store food, a “shower” room (basically a cement room with a floor drain–no actual shower), and a front room with a dining table. There is a pit latrine outside. We have a very kind field assistant named Joseph and a woman named Prosi who cooks and cleans for us. We also have all sorts of creatures sharing our house with us. There are bats in the rafters, toads (we found one in the house but let it outside because it seemed skinny and food-deprived), geckos, ants and a whole variety of other insects, a colony of wasps outside, a rat we’ve heard but not seen, and three dogs who live outside in the village and have adopted us as their caretakers. Most of this is (believe it or not) just fine and to be expected, but I was more than a little unsettled when I found a baby bat in my bed on the first night. We since learned how to more properly secure the mosquito netting so that nothing, including bats, can get in!
Yesterday was our first day out at our site, Kasokwa. Whereas Sonso is pretty deep in the forest, Kasokwa is a small forest fragment at the edge of the reserve. It’s a little island of forest in the middle of human habitation and development. The chimps are less habituated and we spent all morning with Joseph, Zinta, and Andrea (the manager of the Kasokwa Forest Project) just trying to locate the chimps. This was much harder work than our day at Sonso. We spent much of the day crawling through thick brush and vines in search of the chimps. At one point we heard a chainsaw and the crash of a falling tree. A few minutes later we came upon the loggers with the mahogany tree they had just cut down. This logging is illegal but happens anyway with little enforcement of the laws. After three years of giving the CHCI bushmeat talk and telling people not to buy teak and mahogany, it was pretty surreal to run into it actually happening on Day 1 in the forest. Joseph estimates that there are just a few dozen 100+ year old trees in that forest fragment, and that number will continue to dwindle as people continue to log. It will be difficult to be at Kasokwa and not get depressed about the state of the forest and the tiny group of chimps in it.
Anyway, we eventually located some of the chimps in a distant tree and observed them through binoculars for a little while but we never got any closer and lost them after about 45 min or so. Today is a day off, so we are doing some shopping in Masindi. It is a very rainy day, so most people are staying inside. They think it’s funny to see us muzungus in our rain gear splashing through the puddles with our backpack and supplies.
Now that I am settled in, I will hopefully establish a regular routine for emailing, etc.
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